My Timing belt ws replaced 2k ago. The Tensionier pulley bolt snapped and has caused some interiort engine damage. Given the condition of the bolt, is it likely that the bolt was over tightened causing it to snap or is it a faulty bolt? VW Passat 2. Look at the ends of the broken halves. An over torqued fastener can show signs of the stress as the metal is partially rotated at the break point. A swirl pattern in the outer regions of the broken face is a good indicator of over stress.
A shear failure without over-torque will look much different as the bolt simply snaps off in one direction often leaving a rough protrusion on one side. Without some signs of corrosion, a shear failure is unlikely unless the metal was fatigued from over torquing or an incorrect fastener was used e. You might also want to measure the length of the end that was in the block and then the depth of the block hole.
This will tell you if the correct bolt length was used or if the bolt had bottomed out prior to proper torque on the tensioner assembly.
Has the tensioner bearing seized up or is it dragging badly? A seized tensioner can cause the bolt to break. Thanks for your reply. Then tensioner pulley was not replaced at the time the iming belt was replaced because it had been replaced by another mechanic when the timing belt was replaced with the water pumb 30k mile prior. The current mechanic said the tensioner pulley was in great shape and therefore he did not replace it.
Should he have anyway also, the prior mechanic said he did not replace the bolt when he replaced the tensioner pulley. Bolts can and do fail. Radiator, fan, fan shrowd, radiator hoses, and accessory belts.
Broken torsion bar adjuster bolts *HELP*
Although a rare event, it does happen. The mechanic is planning on replacing the timing belt again, last replaced 2k miles agoand tensioner pulley. And what kind of repair cost is indicated.
I have a 2. The cam belt replacement should also include replacing the water pump, roller, tensioner, bolts and probably the thermostat and housing - these parts are all provided in most quality cam belt kits.
I would expect some valve or piston damage that can only be determined by both head removal. What is the cost of the cam kit?Fret not, young wrench, for I have a solution that will keep you from losing your sanity. A while back, as I was replacing a coolant temperature sensor in a car I was working on, the brass sensor threads and aluminum sensor housing had a bit of a falling out and decided that they would make life difficult for everyone around them.
What this meant for me is that when I went to tighten the sensor down to a watertight seal, the head of the sensor snapped off, leaving the hollow brass core firmly stuck in the engine. I simply inserted the drill extractor into the hole and slowly ran it out by turning it counter-clockwise with a ratchet. I then installed a new coolant temperature sensor in its place, making sure not to over-torque the small bolt. If that happens, there are a few more methods to try to free that stuck bolt:.
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The A. Shop Subscribe. Read on. Subscribe To Our Newsletter. Beep beep, it's newsletter time. Drop your email here and get our stories in your inbox. Freddy "Tavarish" Hernandez. Filed to: DIY. Open kinja-labs. Share This Story. Get our newsletter Subscribe.Re-engineering the future. Need help? We remanufacture electronic automotive parts. Welcome Guest Login Register. Latest Posts Popular Topics. VAG 2. Flat Ascending Flat Descending Threaded. Forum Master Technician. Just wondering that as, I would guess, we're all aware by now of the issue with the tensioner stud on VAG 2.
All the Gates kits I use have a new stud included and Gates technical tell me it should be replaced and I've never had a problem with the first belt change.
Replace, torque and angle tighten the nut correctly and it's fine. But I'm now seeing ones on second and third changes and a couple of them have taken some of the thread out of the head with them so I've had thread inserts fitted local engineering firm who say they do about five a week for local Audi delaer! Any thoughts? As I see it if I replace the stud and it breaks it's my fault. If I don't replace the stud and it breaks it's my fault. Not a comfortable feeling! Posted Monday, January 27, PM.
I leave the stud in and just lock-tite the new nut on. And never over tighten it. I do the same with the engine mount bolts. I haven't had a problem yet. But thats not to say i wont in the future. When I was in the dealer, the kit only came with new nuts and the tensioner was only changed every 2nd belt change. I had some on over miles that had never broke. I would say it is down to ham fists tbh. The newer CR kit does come with the stud though.
If you don't think they would honour warranty, perhaps use dealer kits as they aren't much more from TPS and when it does shear off so long as you have a good dealer it should be done under parts warranty. I know our dealer would have done it but there are plenty who wont so beware.
Posted Tuesday, January 28, PM. Forum Technician.
Hi, More of the PD kits are including the studs, I think the workshop manual even states in bold to check the stud is not loose or turns when torquing nut now. BRE engine code seems to be the worst one by far for some weird reason. Heard of a few few that loose the belt after a change when stud has been replaced.
Not heard a problem when stud was left alone.Well the last couple of days have really put me under the bus. First off, a really bad, bad spring fever. But anyway, the weather makes it really difficult to fix the second problem that I got myself into. So as the title implies, I have a Toyota Corrola that just broke down at the same time I was sick bad luck always comes in three. Then out of the sudden karma stroke. That means there is no way to get it out easily. The 19mm is one you use to adjust the belt.
Now long story short, I brought it to the nearby auto shop. It was a scary ride because there was nothing to cool the radiator haha those liquid coolers for CPU is nothing! I totally expected that price tag because it seemed pretty serious to me, but being a stubborn head I was like heck no.
It was running on the battery the whole time anyway. Fortunately, I looked up some information online and it turns out a bunch of other people have the same freaking issue design flaw? So I took advice from this thread and tried it myself and succeeded! Here are what you need:. Then you also need this drill bit 1 and a spriral screw extractor 2 from Homedepot. Finally, you need a toolkit and a car jack. I hope you already have those laying around.
They are pretty essential. If not, you may have to stop by Harbor Freight. Start taking off bolts that hold the marked parts below. Remove the serpentine belt. Once the engine is raised properly, it should tilt up like this. Then you can start removing the tensioner itself. Locate the rest of the broken bolt that stuck on the engine block. Set your drill forward and use the aforementioned drill bit 1 to dig a hole into the broken part. Use a wrench and slowly turn it counterclockwise to remove the left over part.
You may struggle with this a little bit but keep going. Ecovacs Deebot N79S. By the time I finished all this, you probably completed 7 seasons of GoT. Your email address will not be published. Name required. Email required. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.Jan 28, 1. Messages: 6 Likes Received: 3. While trying to use the adjusting bolts for my torsion bars, both adjusting bolts snapped off.
Is there a way to unload the bars so I can remove the adjusters? I havent seen any tools online either for this purpose. Only tools to help pull the bars out. Any ideas? Jan 28, 2. Messages: 1, Likes Received: I have not heard of anything you could use to get the bolts out as the car sits. If I was stuck at that point, I believe I would, in this order: - remove the tie rod from the lower ball joint - remove the strut rod - separate the lower ball joint from the spindle In other words keep clear of its trajectory.
Once the tension is relieved, I would remove the control arm. With all this done, you 'should be able to remove the torsion bar Then you can work on getting the busted bolt out by putting the barrel nut in a vice. If I'm off on my thought process, or there is a step I have missed, somebody please chime in. Last edited: Jan 29, Jan 28, 3. Messages: 12, Likes Received: You cant remove the strut rod with the torsion bar still loaded as the lca can not be moved backwards.
Get the weight off the front end, and drill the broken bolt for an easy out. Hopefully that will work. Jan 28, 4. Messages: 11, Likes Received: I don't remember anything really limiting the downward travel except the upper control arm bumper and the shock. I'd jack it up, remove either of the ball joints and shock and I'd think it would be able to relax.
If they broke off with a wrench I doubt an easy out will do it, I'd cut the adjusters off to where the threaded plate can be pulled out and put in a drill press because they won't drill to easy especially laying on your back. Good luck. Jan 28, 5. Messages: 8, Likes Received: Liquid wrench. Jack it up till front tires are off the ground put on jack stands and slowly melt the adjusting bolt down till all pressure has been released from torsion bars and remove the adjuster.
Replace with new parts.One way how to extract a broken screw + drill and torx key.
Do not cut the bolt off, melt it out. Jan 28, 6.Bolt wouldn't come out so I tried to tighten and loosen going back and forth and it snapped. The bolt is now stuck inside the engine. It's an 05 Acura Rl. I bought a bolt extraction kit but there just isn't enough space to fit the drill by within the space by itself let alone with the bit. Any advice? I'm really bum. You might can take the motor mounts loose and lower or raise the engine a few inches it beats removing the entire engine.
Since the threads are seized inside the block and the bolt snapped, i doubt the screw extractor kit will be able to get it out either. Once you drill the bolt out, you can re-tap another hole or you can install a heli-coil insert. Be careful, the extractor is very hard metal not like a soft bolt and if it snaps, it will be extremely more difficult to drill and you will need to then buy a expensive bit to get it out. First are you buying original part, so mae in 3rd.
If so install new belt and tensioner let tensioner loose and tighten, turn engine by hand or socket wrench two times then loosen tensioner and retignten, then should be right. Also purchase right bolt from Dealer and don't overtighten. Make sure tang on rear of tensioner is in slot on rear part that fastens to block.
Maybe you could fish the broken bit out with a magnetic pickup tool? But you'll still have to disassemble to get room to drill the broken bolt out of the engine block. Can you remove an engine mount or two and tilt the engine to get better access?
You'll need lots of room cause you gotta drill really straight. It's probably locktighted in there as well. Shield or remove any nearby wiring and use some heat if the bolt extractor doesn't work.
If it was me I'd bring it to a mechanic and appologize profusely about what you are going to ask him to do. Then tip him when you pick it up. There's these stupid little screws that bite backwards.
They look like tall skinny triangle pyramid type shape, but small, and have notches cut in them to make the "bite" when you turn the screw backwards, tap it in and then use like Chanel locks to take out.Silly mistake—I replaced a belt tensioner due to excessive vibration in the top part where it attaches to the engine.
Whether the movement weakened the stud bolt first or I just used too much force — likely both but definitely the latter — it snapped off.
It is the 12mm bolt not the big 17mm that goes through the belt tensioner. It is not terribly clear, vice grips and PB blaster could work, though I prefer a small good pipe wrench. I would skip the epoxy solution. My understanding is the problem bolt attached the spring loaded plunger to the engine and I feel certain that bolt is a common right hand thread.
The bolt that has often been left hand thread on idlers and tensions is the bolt that the pulley spins on. Agree with Rod. Better get the replacement first. Well that would explain why it snapped in the first place. Well deserved, as I obviously over-wrenches it but in my defense the previous belt tensioner was popping like crazy and shaking the engine, hence the replacement, so MAYBE it loosened the bolt a bit for meh.
Broken torsion bar adjuster bolts *HELP*
Pulled down with my hand too quick and snap! Looks like the stud labeled 3 in the below diagram. It is a stud, with M GM replacement tensioners come with a new stud or at least did at some point. Using some CRC freeze-off and lock pliers I was able to, a fifth of a turn by a fifth of a turn, remove the bolt.
I want to thank everyone for their help and responses. FInding a m In the future I will be more clear; was a bit shell-shocked I did such a silly thing and assumed the worse. Thanks everyone! Not as bad as about at night breaking off a water pump bolt. Luckily a nut and a welder helped out. Good for you for not yielding to that stubborn stud.
Sometimes in that situation its possible to use a die to extend the threads onto the stud down further, then use back to back locking nuts to remove it with a wrench. When the serpentine belt tensioner mounting bolt snapped off on my Town and country, it snapped off flush with the block. No room to drill it out even with a right angle attachment without pulling the engine.
He got it out, I suspect with a torch.
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